Casco Viejo

December 19 and 20, 2012

Half the buildings look like this

A renovated hotel at the Plaza Bolivar

Panama City was founded in 1519 and became important in the transfer of Inca gold and silver to Spain. These precious metals were shipped to Panama City, and then carried over the isthmus to the Caribbean/Atlantic coast. The path across the jungle was alternately known as the Camino Real (Royal Trail) or, due to the many deaths that occurred along the way, the Camino de las Cruces (Road of the Crosses). The first Panama City was looted and burned by the notorious pirate Captain Henry Morgan in 1671. The second Panama City was then built 10 km away in 1673 in an area that is now known as the Casco Viejo. This neighborhood has received a lot of attention in various American newspapers and magazines because of its historic architecture and because it is undergoing gentrification.

Half the buildings look like this

A fabulous door knocker

We went to Casco Viejo twice over the past two days as it is only a short taxi ride away from our hotel. Virtually the entire neighborhood is under construction. The hotels and buildings that have been renovated are magnificent. However, in between the renovated buildings are crumbling slum-like dwellings. There was a heavy police presence, but it was unclear as to whether that was because of the road detours, the fact that the Panamanian president lives in the neighborhood, or due to the possibility of crime. It is the second most recommended site to see after the Panama Canal and it is considered to be a main tourist destination. The neighborhood received World Heritage status in 1997, but that is threatened by the development of a major highway that is under construction and encircles Casco Viejo.